Istanbul Mornings: from Buyukdere to Taksim

There's something about the rain here. As night falls, so do the drops and they pour, and it doesn't stop. Just off the coast of the Black Sea, in a fishing village called Buyukdere, there's something peaceful - far from Istanbul. I can see why the legendary Margaret Moth kept her home here. 

The morning run was often peaceful, quiet and surreal. The fishing boats were in, the fisherman selling their catch from wooden carts and my walk down to the path often followed the smell of the poor dead fish waiting to be cooked up and consumed. But not matter, the bright sun over the Sea, the Mountains that rose above them and all the village roof tops made the mornings ever so picturesque. After good physical exertion and serenity, I enjoyed stopping by the market to pick up fruit and a pastry for breakfast before going back to the old house for a shower. 

The local Taxi manager knew my face every morning, and that I needed a quick ride to the Metro. He always smiled as he waved down one of his drivers for me. He could say hello in English and understood me when I'd bow slightly and say one of the few Turkish words I know, "Sal" - which is actually, "Sag Olun" and and is often used in gratitude. 

Taxi, Metro and Taksim Square, it was a daily ritual for my two week stay in Istanbul. Constant views of the Mosques all over the city, cafes for Turkish tea in the morning...oh and in the afternoon and at night with colleagues, new friends and strangers. Lunch lasted a few hours, and there was always room to drink more tea in a cafe open to the outside with an adopted cat that sat in the doorway. 

In spite of the Mob moving through the city (nearly 16 million people mind you), Istanbul had it's own ora, rhythm and movement that made it unique to any other place I have been. But simultaneously, it's modern jive that Turks never fail to call attention to - though, I would recommend if you're in a department store, ask the manager to communicate with you on Google Translate, be prepared to dry your clothes on a line, if you take a Taxi: don't watch the drive and if you walk, make sure to watch OUT for the drivers...and oh, don't forget to try the Simit with your Turkish tea.